Day 13: Boat ride across Lake Titicaca and visit to Uros & Taquile Islands, 5.13.19

Besides Machu Picchu, I was really looking forward to visiting the floating islands where the Uros people have lived for over 2,000 years. Can you imagine living on a island of reeds? I couldn’t wait to meet these people and their islands!

Today there was a strike in Peru. The farmers were protesting for higher wages. While we in the US deal with peaceful protesters regularly, Peruvian protestors cause a lot of problems. Fearing we would have trouble getting stuck in traffic, Pepe changed the order of our touring. Today we would leave our hotel by boat to visit Uros and Taquile Islands, thus completely avoiding the highways. This turned out to be a wise decision since we heard later from one tourist that her bus get held up on the side of the road for twelve hours; the tourists ran out of water and food and were without bathroom facilities. Sounds dreadful!

About 1,200 Uros people still live on about 90 artificial islands that are about 3 miles from Puno. Lake Titicaca is 12,500 feet above sea level making it the highest navigable lake in the world. When Uros migrated to Lake Titicaca about 2,700 year ago they built moveable floating islands to get away from their enemies.

In the 1980’s the first visitors came to the islands. A school opened on the islands in 1992. Two months ago floating toilets got installed on each island by the Peruvian government. They also now have solar panels in the homes that provide about 4 hours of energy a day. There is one primary school for the islands. Students must travel to Puno for high school.

Here is one of the floating islands with tourist and reed boats docked in front. If an island has an arch it allows tourist to visit.

We visited Condor Island. It had two condors made from reeds on the front of the island. Thirteen family members live here. They used to live on a bigger island, but they did not get along with some other families so they solved the problem by cutting the island in half.

Here the president of Condor Island is showing us how they tie 6 1/2 feet deep cubes of reeds together then anchor them to make the base of the island. The reeds are anchored to the lake bed by long sticks and lots of rope. In time the depth of the reeds gets smaller and then a new island will need to be made. They can last 30 years or more. The houses are just set on the island so that can be easily moved when fresh reeds need to be replaced on the top every few weeks.

We were shown the foods they eat: fish, dried birds and plants and even the stalk of the tortora reed. I took a bite of the reed. It was rather bland and crunchy. We were also broken into small groups to tour the inside of a home. The woman above showed us her home. There was one bed for the family of four: her husband, herself and her two children. This woman’s son started to cry so she put him on her back and he immediately stated to smile.

Those who wanted could pay 10 soles (about $3.00) to take a reed boat ride. For a while the president and his niece rowed the boat. Of course, I opted for a ride. Seated above our Beth, Beth, Joann and Sharon. At first the president and his niece rowed the boat. Then after a while the president jumped down onto a motor boat hooked onto the back to finish our ride to a neighboring island. Yes, the Uros are changing!

A mother from Condor Island was taking her children to school on a motor boat. Change is inevitable. It made me wonder how long the Uros will keep living on their floating islands.

Our next destination was Taquile Island which was a two hour boat ride away from the floating islands. About 2,000 people life on the island. The people were conquered by the Spanish and had to wear Spanish style clothing which they continue to wear today. Their society is based on the Inca moral code of “do not steal, do not lie, and do not be lazy”. Tourism is a big business with 40,000 visitors a year.

When we arrived on the island, it was pouring down rain. Climbing to the top on a stoned pathway was quite a challenge. We were supposed to have lunch at a house half way up the hill. However, since it was the Festival of the Cross yesterday, the family that was supposed to provide our lunch were still getting over their big celebration. Inside the house is smelled of beer. There were coca leaves, empty beer bottles and a hung over Taquileño. No lunch was going to be found here.

Pepe and our local guide Fausto had to regroup to another plan. Fausto took some of our group to a restaurant on the top of the hill while Tom, Marilyn, Tall Beth and I stayed in another building with Pepe to await box lunches from the restaurant.

In 2005 Taquile and its Textiles were nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. The men of the island are noted for their finely knitted hats and the women for their distinct pattern of textiles.

Taquile Island is noted for it excellent rainbow trout. I was tender and delicious. Of course there were side dishes of potatoes and rice!

My favorite picture taken from the island looking down on Lake Titicaca.

Our local guide Fausto explained the tradition of the knitted caps. Single men wore one with white and a red pattern, while the one he is holding is worn by a married man. Young boys learn the tradition of the knitted hats; when they marry they must present their father-in-law with a hat so tightly knitted that it will hold water or else the marriage is off!

Here are the Spanish outfits that the people of island still wear today.

After learning about their textiles and knitted hats, the rain had stopped. It was much easier to descend the stone path to our boat for the ride back to our hotel.

Scene of the reeds that surround Lake Titicaca.

Coming up to the dock in front of our hotel, the Jose Antonio along Lake Titicaca.

After a few hours rest, our group boarded a bus to Puno for dinner. Exhausted, I decided to return to our hotel. Pepe arranged for a “safe” taxi for me; I had room service bring me a bowl of chicken soup and a coke. After many days of hectic touring, I needed some R&R.

What a day! I know I will never forget our tour on Condor Island and the “after festival” dilemma on Taquile Island. One-of-a-kind experiences to say the least! Buenos Noches.

One Reply to “Day 13: Boat ride across Lake Titicaca and visit to Uros & Taquile Islands, 5.13.19”